Thursday, July 10, 2008

The King and I


From Nepal, we moved to a more developed cricket nation for some more Twenty20 matches.

India – home of the Indian Premier League (IPL), the late Mother Teresa and more than one billion people in less than half Australia’s land mass.

Crowded you think, that’s an understatement, and a Delhi train station, our 13-hour train ride or a wander through the streets of Jodhpur (located in India’s north), rammed that point home and managed to hit every single bodily sense along the way.

From the beggars, to the kashmir rug shops and dodging motorcycles, bicycles, camels and tuk-tuks in between, was all simply part of a normal day’s existence.

So was a journey on a rick shaw but it had the adrenalin pumping more than a ride on the Bush Beast at Sydney’s Wonderland and brought me closer to the outside of a moving bus than I had ever been before.

But as Tim Robbins famously said as Andy Dufrense in the 1994 movie Shawshank Redemption, "get busy living, or get busy dying".

From the Jodhpur street scene to the Indian state’s highest point – the Mehrangharh fort – and dinner under the stars, in full view of the stunning speckled city and semi-desert, complete with traditional Indian music, dancing and food, with none other than the Maharaja (the King of Rajasthan).

And no, the King of Rajasthan was not Shane Warne, despite the fact he lead the Royals to victory in the 2008 IPL and the Victorians tried to vote him into power.

But in all seriousness, no words will do the magic of that star lit night any justice, however, it was a fitting way to spend our final meal together after almost seven weeks on the road.

In between the geographical highs and lows in India we experienced three Twenty20 matches (won two and lost one) at the Railways Stadium (a ground former Australian test player and Invincible Lindsay Hassett played on during WWII).

All matches were complete with music and commentators, some Rajasthan cricket representatives, on a deck that struggled to reach above Mini-Me’s knees, and an infield that would have been more at home on the dusty confides of the playground behind the Manse at St Peter’s in 1999.

Beyond the boundary and while still in the sub-continent there was also a safari-like trek in a jeep to remote villages and an opium farm all owned by a mysterious, yet friendly man named the Colonel; a tour of the Royal Palace; cricket bat hunting; an overabundance of cultural dances, music and traditional welcomes; and more curries than this chicken schnitzel loving boy from Bolwarra had ever come into contact with before.

And just like that, it was over.

One more hand of euchre in Jodhpur airport when our aircraft was delayed for an hour or so but we had done it.

Around the world in 50 days.

Nine countries, four continents and 24 matches.

A cricket experience, actually an experience, none of the tourists will ever forget, and for me, at 22-years of age, bloody lucky.

A couple of runs, a couple of wickets and a couple of beers with good people sharing good times all around the world.

Part of me did not want it to end but when the big kangaroo hopped into Mumbai I was one happy little Vegemite.

The freedom flight had arrived, people understood when I said, “G’day, how ya’ going”, Angus and Julia Stone were playing on the radio and I was homeward bound to 44 Kensington Road: Julie’s baked meals, Will’s beer out of the back fridge, Aimee’s laugh, Dan’s guitar and a much needed hug from Al.

Thankyou for sharing this unforgettable journey with me and I hope you enjoyed reading about it as much as I enjoyed doing it.

Until next time…

Josh Callinan
Pic: Two boys from country NSW and the King of Jodhpur. Wingham's Ben Cole (left) and me with the Maharaja in between.

Saturday, July 5, 2008

Cricket, curries and organised chaos


Have you ever heard the saying – it goes through you like a hot Indian curry?

Well, it really does.

Whoever uttered those infamous words was spot on the mark.

Curries in India are seriously hot and can force grown men to desperately call for water, to cringe and cower in pain, and to lose weight in less time than a Todd Carney binge drinking session.

The final leg of the 50th anniversary Australian Old Collegians (AOC) World Tour took us to Asia and while India was on the cards, first stop was the home of the Himalayas – Nepal.

We arrived and immediately the humidity hit us like an Anthony Mundine jab and we left Kathmandu airport with sweat on the brow, flowers around our neck, an orange dot on our head and a spot on national television.

A trip down town on our air-conditioned bus (all windows down and overhanging fans, covered by nothing more than a rusty metal cage, at full throtle) was a real eye opener.

Sacred cows wandered the streets, poverty lined the pavement, monkeys posed as sparkies on power lines Energy Australia would not believe, and piles and piles of stench-ridden rubbish dominated the gutters.

And the traffic – there’s lots of it and there’s no road rules.

It’s dead set honk the horn and go for your life.

And I mean literally grit your teeth, hold your breath, cross your fingers, pray to whatever God first comes to mind, hope your girlfriend will take good care of your car at home, and go for it.

But after another novelty horn honk we made it through and while still alive in Nepal our touring group was able to kick a big one off Morgan Freeman’s and Jack Nicholas’ bucket list.

A flight: over Nepal’s answer to Kosciusko, over Edmund Hillary’s playground, over the mother of all mountains – Everest.

Absolutely magic!

We also tried rice wine (code word for rocket fuel) and travelled to a traditional Nepalese village, hidden amongst the rows of rice paddies, and we witnessed the real faces of this country, beautiful friendly children and an old bearded man smoking out of a large cylindrical instrument (but that’s another story).

On the cricket field, which was beautifully set at the foot of the Himalayas, we played three Twenty20 fixtures in hot and humid conditions against many of the Nepalese under-19 national players (They won three matches at the under-19 World Cup in Malaysia earlier this year, reached the plate final against the West Indies and gave Australia a run for their money as well).

We were well and truly outclassed in all facets of the game, especially with the ball and in the field, and consequently lost all three matches.

Former Sri Lankan representative Roy Silva is the head coach and he has done extremely well with local talent.

Not only that, but the interest in cricket in Nepal was unbelievable.

We had at least 300 people at each of our matches, including many village children, and made the Himalayan Times each day.

Hopefully the Australian Cricket Board can help out the Nepalese cricket family with junior development through money or equipment because it would go a long way towards assisting a developing nation striving to improve its home grown talent.

Josh Callinan
Pic: A typical passenger on a Nepalese ute.